As deer season approaches, it is a must that we list the dos and don'ts of the sport. Some of these items may not surprise you; then again, others you may not have even thought of before. Here, we will go through a short list that is not all inclusive, but gives you a pretty good idea what to do as well as what NOT to do.

DO go the range and fire your weapon before the season begins. This means buying some of the ammunition or arrows you will hunt with and get accustomed to them.

DO sight in your scope or archery sights. When you go to the range, be sure to adjust the sights so you are as dead on as possible when it counts.

DO clean your gun regularly. Not only should you clean your weapon after the trip to the range, but after every trip into the field. You may be out there is all types of weather and you have to keep that weapon safe to fire.

DO wear blaze orange when you enter the field. Every year, we hear about hunters mistaken for wildlife. Deer cannot see the blaze orange like we do; they are actually color blind.

DO keep your weapon UNLOADED when transporting it, even when only changing hunting areas.

DO get a legal hunting license. The fees help keep the DNR running and the game reserves in good condition.

DO take water with you.  If you're going to be out there for several hours, you WILL get thirsty.

DO use scent control and increase your chances of success.

DON'T ever point your weapon at anything unless you intend to shoot at it.

DON'T wear any shades of blue into the field. Deer are color blind, but they have sensitivity to ultraviolet frequencies. They see blue as a bright blue haze and will avoid that area at all costs.

DON'T go into the field without wearing safety or blaze orange clothing. Wear it from the time you leave your vehicle and leave it on.

DON'T use illegal techniques to attract deer. Follow the rules and be the example.

DON'T leave trash in the woods. I am constantly finding beer cans, cigarette packs and other assorted pieces of garbage and I hate that. Whatever you take with you comes back out with you. Leave the woods the same way you found them.

DON'T eat or smoke in the woods. This creates odors that deer can smell and avoid.

DON'T take illegal game and be certain that you know the species you are hunting. Be able to tell males from females and only harvest legal game.

One of the most exciting ways to hunt is with a bow. Archery hunting has become a huge industry in the United States and dates back to the most ancient times we know of. Hunting with bows is a bit different than with firearms, as we will discuss here a bit.

Many bow hunters will do what is called a walking hunt. This is a type of hunt where the hunter stalks or stealth through the woods, stopping and listening every so often for sounds or possible sightings. This kind of hunting with bows is not my favorite method, but does work for some more experienced bow hunters. Mainly because the shot you may get at that trophy buck is fleeting and you need to pull, draw and shoot in one quick, fluid motion.

Then there are those that prefer to stay on the ground and use ground blinds or natural cover to conceal them. This type of hunting requires some scouting prior to the season opener. You should know that deer are frequenting that area or you may sit there for a full day and see nothing. This is not only frustrating, but also makes for a LONG day in the field.

By far, the most effective way to hunt with a bow is from a tree stand or tree blind. The hunter will climb a portable ladder and either sit or stand on a fixed platform above the ground. This position gives the hunter a perspective of the surrounding area. Most times, the deer can be spotted coming from some 200 yards off. All you need to do is be patient and wait for him to come into your range.

Speaking of range, approximately 30 yards is the norm for hunting with bows. More experienced bow hunters can be accurate at distances of up to 100 yards, but THAT takes a whole bunch of practice. If you are quiet enough and use scent control wisely, deer will usually walk right into your range within 20 or 30 yards and not even know you are there. Get that close and your chances of putting your arrow in a deer are pretty good.

Hunting bows come in a few varieties, such as long bows, compound bows and recurve bows. Each one shoots differently, so be sure to practice with the bow you will use for hunting. Longbows are simply a wooden or composite material that with a length of gut or string stretched between the ends. Compound bows have a system of wheels and pulleys that allow for a strong tension on the draw of the string. Recurve bows are similar to compounds except they have the ends curved away from the drawstring.

Any of these bows are suitable for hunting with bows and are effective in the field. It is simply a matter of personal choice. I personally like compound bows because of the ease of draw and accuracy I have enjoyed at up to 50 yards or so. In any case, hunting with bows is an exciting way to take down that trophy buck or just put some meat in your freezer this winter.

Of all the ways to hunt deer, one of the most exciting is hunting with deer rifles. I have hunted with bows, crossbows and shotguns. Hunting with a rifle beat them all for thrill alone. Why do I say that?  With a deer rifle a long range shot is a possibility with the right equipment.

Hunting with deer rifles is sort of like the way the pioneers did it. Of course, they were using muzzleloaders for the most part, but they were still rifles.  Take a position on the ground and conceal yourself with ground brush and twigs for a close range opportunity. Go up in a tree stand for a long range perspective. Both are equally acceptable.

To go hunting with a deer rifle is simple enough. All you need to take into the field with you is your gun, extra ammunition and assorted day supplies. This may include food (if you eat in the woods), water, and deer cleaning supplies and/or extra cold weather gear for the winter months.

It is important to know your deer rifle and its capabilities. Some rifles are accurate up to 1000 yards and others are not. I prefer a 30-06 where it is legal. Now your accuracy is dependent on your scope. That scope needs to be adjusted so that the bullet goes where you want it to go. Therefore, you need to go to the range and sight your rifle in.

You also need to know how to properly adjust the elevation and windage on the scope to keep it accurate. The suggested distance to use for this is 100 yards. This is because the hash marks on the adjustments are made to reflect a quarter inch each at that distance. If you can drop half dozen shots into a 4 or 5 inch circle at 100 yards consistently, you're good to go.

Of course, there are always adjustments to be made on every shot during the hunt. Factors like wind, rain, snow or line of sight all figure in significantly. Then there is the drop of the bullet. Consider all of these things when lining up the crosshairs on your trophy.

To get ready for hunting with deer rifles, you need to go scouting a bit before the season begins. Deer routes change from year to year, so you need to know the area you want to hunt is homing deer. Then you should go to the shooting range and make sure your deer rifle is set properly. Sight in your scope (if you have one), clean the gun thoroughly and bore sight the weapon if necessary.

Go over your supplies and get everything together for the trip into the field. Wash your hunting clothes in a scent free detergent and invest in some scent wafers. Place your washed hunting gear into a plastic bag with a scent wafer. In addition to this, wear the wafers into the field to conceal your human scent.

All this preparation will lead you to a successful hunt. Being prepared is always the best way to go and if you have scouted the area well, you are sure to fill your freezer with some venison.

When it comes to firearms, hunting with muzzleloaders is a nice choice. Many states permit larger calibers such as the .50 caliber or even a .720. This gives you more take down power as you will only have one shot at that big buck. By the time you reload, he'll be gone and all you'll have to remember him by an image of that white tail flipping through the trees!

Muzzleloaders are regarded as the weapon of choice for true sportsmen. Many people prefer to take their quarry down with a single shot. Others just like the idea of loading their own ammunition. In either case, hunting with muzzleloaders is exciting, fun and a challenge all at the same time.

Hunting with muzzleloaders is like any other type of hunting. Your state of residence will set forth the season for hunting with muzzleloaders. This usually falls between early archery and firearms season and overlaps the end of one and the start of the other. See your state's DNR site for specific dates each year. After muzzleloader season, late archery normally kicks in.

Here are some tips for hunting with muzzleloaders.

• 1. Know the equipment you are using. You will most likely have to carry more with you into the woods, so be sure you know the equipment you need to carry and what you need after the shot.
• 2. Adjusting to a one shot hunt. Moving from a standard deer rifle is a necessary adjustment for any hunter. Going from having 4 or 5 shots to bring that buck down to having one, single shot is daunting. Take your time and make that one shot count.
• 3. Know the limitations of your weapon and yourself. The effective range of a muzzleloader is not much different than that of a deer rifle or shotgun. The gun itself can be accurate at long ranges, but since most states require you to use open sights, the range is dependent on the hunter's ability to see and sight in that target clearly. Hunting with muzzleloaders means you MUST know your weapon's limits as well as your own.
• 4. Going scouting in the pre-season is tantamount to successful hunting with muzzleloaders. A muzzleloader is considered to be a primitive weapon; not because it is less of a piece of technology than rifles or shotguns, but because of the effective range needed to pull down the quarry. The successful muzzleloader hunter needs to KNOW that the area he/she is in actually has deer residing there. This will typically place you within fifty yards of that buck when he comes proudly walking through his home giving you the best possible chance of putting him in your freezer.
• 5. After that first shot is taken, you need to know what to do. Scent control is very important to the muzzleloader hunter. Even the best of them will have the smell of black powder on their person after firing a muzzleloader. Performing a scent control routine afterwards is vital. Having a plan on where to out the cleaning patch and odorous items is absolutely critical.

These are just a few of the things you should be aware of when hunting with muzzleloaders. As you hunt and gain experience, you will develop a routine that will become second nature.

I have used both tree stands and ground blinds. They are both effective in their own way and have their own time and place of use. I will try to be as clear as possible here, but when it comes to stands versus blinds, it's a dead heat at the finish.

Many hunters swear by the use of a ground blind. This is an enclosure that keeps the hunter entirely concealed. There are two types: ground blinds and elevated blinds. Most types of ground blinds are portable and are designed to be set up in a few seconds, and then taken down at the end of the day.

Ground blinds are usually good to use if you can get them set up and "brushed in" prior to first light. While a ground blind is made of camouflage pattern, they are not part of the natural setting, so "brushing in" is required. This is the process of using the sticks and brush around the area you set up in to conceal the blind and make it look as if it were a part of the woods.

Elevated blinds are an enclosure that is raised a little above the ground. Since these cannot be brushed in, they are usually set up a couple to a few weeks before the season to let the deer get used to it as part of the natural habitat. All blinds have shooting windows on all sides to allow a 360 degree view of the surroundings.

Stands, also called tree stands, are small portable platforms attached to a ladder. The hunter sets up the stand, goes up the ladder and either sits or stands on a platform. This is a good way to hunt since deer cannot physically look straight upwards. They may feel that you are there, but they will not be able to look up and see you.

Hunting from a blind or a stand is a matter of preference to the individual hunter. I have hunted both and can tell you that deer will come within 25 yards of either one. Many hunters prefer ground blinds because they are lightweight, weather proof and can be made to look like part of the natural surroundings. The windows with zippers on all four sides give a shot at any point for 360 degrees.

If I had to place an advantage with one over the other, it would probably be the stand, only because it is low profile and is easily transported should you want to move it mid-season.

It is still a matter of your personal choice, however, choose so wisely.

Well, it's that time of year again and the fever is already taking hold. I'm talking about deer hunting and if you are like me, you know exactly what I am talking about. One of the first things we need to do in order to help make a successful hunt is scout the areas we will be hunting. Here are some tips for scouting deer.

Know your area and know the signs of life

Pick out several different areas that you will want to hunt. The main idea in scouting deer is to know the area well. Remember that you are entering their home and they know it a lot better than you do. Walk through the area few weeks prior to hunting season and look for signs of deer life. Deer leave behind a few visible signs that they are there, like rubs, scrapes and bedding spots. Knowing how to spot these things is vital to our success as hunters.

As you walk through the area, keep a sharp eye out for the signs that deer are in the vicinity. During the early archery season, males (bucks) are not yet territorial and run in packs of three or four along with a few females (does). So what you want to look for now are tracks. Take note of what direction they are pointing and follow them until you cannot go any further.  This will give you a clear picture of where the deer run and where they run to.

Sometime in the middle of November, the bucks start rutting and become territorial. This is when they run alone or with a doe or two. Scouting during rutting season is a bit different. During this time, you need to look for buck rubs, ground scrapes and bedding areas. Deer are creatures of habit and usually stay within a two mile radius if where they are born. If you can lock onto that, you'll find them; IF you're patient.

Scouting from afar

Another scouting method is to find a vantage point that overlooks the area and simply watch the activity. Areas that offer all the necessities are what to look for. This includes cover, water and food sources. Find a combination of any two of these elements and you are just about certain to spot deer there.

During your walk through, take notes on the places that look promising, then find the vantage point and watch with a spotting scope or binoculars. Deer will normally travel through the same spot every day at the same time. As I said, they are creatures of habit, so get to know their habits and routes.

Scouting (trail) cameras are good for pinning down when deer are in a specific spot at a specific time of day. This information can be vital to a successful hunt. Once you get the deer's routine down, you can tailor your excursion to that schedule and see more deer than you shake a stick at.

Scouting deer is not a hard thing to do or difficult to learn. It is a little time consuming and requires you to think ahead a bit, so get off the couch a couple weeks early and scout out your areas!

NOTE: Always place your deer stands or blinds at least a month prior to opening day. Deer know what does and does not belong there. Becoming a part of the natural setting goes a long way to bagging the big one!

Every hunter wants to bag the big one, a nice rack for the wall and a boatload of meat in the freezer. When it comes to trophy bucks, tracking them can be a chore. To track trophy bucks, you just need to do a few things before you ever hit the field. There are some tips you can follow for increased chances of success.

Talk to other hunters who have hunted a specific area and see if they have seen any trophy sized bucks there. Most any hunter will be glad to tell you about the big buck he saw here or got a glimpse of there. Once you know there is a trophy there, you just need to stake out the area and watch. This is something you do prior to the season.

Now that you know there is a trophy that calls the area home, go afield and start looking for life signs, such as tracks, rubs or scrapes. It is a good bet that he wanders through a certain spot at least once every day or two. The question is when does he come through here? Now you can do this one of two ways.

My preferred method is to go afield two or three months-yes MONTHS- before I plan to hunt that spot. I will sit out there and simply watch and take notes. I am as quiet as possible and just watching and learning; stalking, if you will. Now I know that a trophy does live here and frequents the spot every so often.

The other is a more modern method using trail cameras. Set the cameras up at strategic places and then analyze the photos and see when he comes through, what time he comes around and actually SEE how big he really is. Now you are armed with all the info you need to go get him.

Another way is to actually follow tracks wherever they may go. This may take miles and miles of walking. As you go, look for places that offer the three necessities that all deer need; water, food and cover. Find a spot that has two of these readily available and you will be bringing that baby home soon.

Tracking trophy bucks may be a little more challenging than other deer. This is because they are bigger than their brethren; therefore they are also older and wiser than the rest. They have been around a bit and know how to elude you without much effort.

In my personal experience, I have tracked deer for a couple of miles. Then when I went back, I found deer tracks IN my footprints. He knew I was there. He eluded me, then backtracked on me and left me a little message. Do not let people tell you that deer are dumb and do underestimate them.

It's all about realizing that you are in their home and they know the land a lot better than you. Therefore, you need to learn the land and get to know it. This is how you can be successful at tracking trophy bucks. Just respect them.

There is a myth among hunters that deer only grunt or snort during the rut. This is a fallacy that needs to be put to rest right now. Both males and females have been recorded making these sounds all year round. It is true, however, that grunting and snorting activity intensifies with the onset of the rutting season, when bucks are aggressive and does are looking to reproduce.

There are several different sounds that a hunter can put into his or her repertoire for successful hunting.  Each one has its own uses and times that it will be effective. What follows is a list of the calls and grunts that are available, when they can be used and what effect you can expect.

The fawn bleat is one that is extremely effective for bringing females into range. The fawn bleat is designed to imitate a fawn, or baby deer, in distress. The sound triggers the motherly instincts in does that are within earshot. They will respond out of sheer instinct and protest the troubled young one. The fawn bleat is obviously best used within a couple of months after the birthing season.

The buck grunt is mainly used by male deer as a warning to other males that this is their area and to stay away. During the rut, a grunt may trigger a dominant male to come in looking to defend his territory. A grunt is known to be effective and gas been shown in testing to draw a buck in within 45 seconds to a minute and a half.

Another rutting sound is the snort and wheeze, which most hunters have never heard in the wild. This is another intimidation sound used by males during the rut. If the buck is dominant or feels threatened in any way, he will charge in out of simple anger and throw caution to the wind in the interest of preserving his area and remaining the alpha male.

In the early rut, an estrous doe bleat can draw a buck in very nicely. The estrous bleat tells a dominant male that the female is there and looking to mate. The male will respond to this call and come in to make her acquaintance. Most times, if you are positioned right, you can get a shot within 20 yards or less, which is perfect for archery hunters and a dream come true for firearms hunters.

Using grunts can be even more effective in conjunction with other calling techniques like rattling. It is also possible to use two different calls in conjunction, like a grunt followed by a snort & wheeze. All you have to do to use deer grunts and calls effectively is scout the area before the hunt and know the area as well as you can prior to the hunt.

The use of deer calls like grunts and wheezes and bleats has the potential of shortening your hunting day significantly. Instead of sitting in a stand or blind for hours, you could bring the trophy buck of your dreams into bow range in less than half that time. Not to put you in a rush or hurry, but you can fill your freezer with more meat this winter using deer grunts.

Just before the start of the forearms season, Whitetail bucks start to rut. This means that they become very territorial and run singly or with one or two does. During this time, the bucks are extremely aggressive and will fight for territory. The sound of rattling deer antlers can bring a dominant buck into what he perceives to be his area.

This time of year is when the use of deer rattles is a very good tactic to use. There is a right way to use them, a wrong way to use them and a preferable way to use them. Here are some tips for you to consider.

Some hunters prefer alternative materials for a deer rattle. Hard plastics, acrylics and synthetic bone are all valid choices, but I prefer to use the antlers sawn directly off the skull of a buck. This gives more of a natural sound to the rattle and makes me more confident in using the tactic.

Effective deer rattling is best done in tandem with another hunter. One will be located on the ground within 30 or 40 yards of the other hunter, who is up in a tree stand. The reason for this is that deer are not as dumb as you may like to think they are. The sound has to come from ground level and not 15 or 20 feet above the floor of the woods. Deer know the difference.

Also realize that not every buck will come charging in to look for a fight and defend his territory. Some will do this and some will sneak around the edges of the area. This is especially true in heavy or dense cover situations. This also makes the case for having one hunter up high to scout the activity as he will have a vantage point unavailable from the ground.

The use of heavy or lightweight antlers is another personal choice dictated by experience. Many hunters want the heaviest pair of rattles they can get their hands on thinking that big rattle sounds bring big deer in. Others feel that lighter antlers suggest younger, smaller deer in battle and a larger, dominant buck will be drawn in looking for an easy victory.

In either case, the season you are hunting is vital to the tactic you use. Only use a deer rattle in rutting season. By using rattles outside of this time of the year, the bucks will not be as aggressive (actually, not aggressive at all) and the trick will not work.

It is best to have a set that is joined by a rope or lanyard, so they are always together. You can also sling them over your shoulder if you get a shot while using them. I have seen hunters with their rattles actually tied to their jacket sleeve or the bottom of their jacket for convenience. In this way, the rattle can be dropped or let go in a hurry for obvious reasons.  So the best tip I can give you for using deer rattles is to use them wisely and in the proper season. Do not sit there and rattle incessantly for hours; it isn't natural.

Hun ting requires the use of many accessories. Some are basic and others are optional and can increase the effectiveness of your hunt. I wanted to go over a short list of the top hunting accessories that are commonly used.

Scopes

Scopes can increase the accuracy of firearms hunters. Scopes are available for rifles and shotguns, so there is no limitation on the type of firearm you use. A scope can bring a big buck that is physically 150 yards away and make it look as if it is right in front of you. Using the hash marks on the scope adjustments or the mil dots on the crosshairs helps your accuracy at longer distances.

Range finders

A range finder is a piece of electronics that aids the hunter in knowing how far away a target is. These are very simple to use and helps you adjust your shot accordingly for increased accuracy. All you need to do is point the range finder at the target, press a button and the distance is displayed right on the display at the top of the view finder. These are popular among long distance rifle hunters.

Trail cameras

Trail cameras are useful for scouting an area for weeks prior to the hunt. They are fitted with a battery that lasts quite a long time and are strapped to a tree. The shutter is motion activated and takes a snapshot of anything that triggers the camera to take a photo. Each photo is time stamped, so when you look at the photos, you know what is coming through that area and at what time of day it is coming through. These photos are digital and some more expensive models can upload the pictures directly to a web page for immediate viewing. Others require that you go back and replace the memory card.

Scent control

Humans are not a natural part of the deer habitat. We have a smell that is noticeable by deer and they KNOW when something is amiss. If a deer picks up your scent, he will skirt the area, alter his routine and never come in. Scent control is used to conceal that odor as much as possible. This accessory is available as shampoo, bath soap, laundry detergent, scent wafers or liquids for additional portability.

Spotting scopes

Close to what a riflescope does, a spotting scope is a portable accessory that is used to scout the area around for activity that you would not see with your naked eyes.  You can watch a deer or other quarry wander through the woods when they are far enough away, your presence is not yet known. Once spotted, you can use rattling or grunts and calls to draw them into range.

Tree stands

It is a physical impossibility for a deer to look straight up. So if a hunter is located above the floor of the woods, the chances of being seen are decreased greatly. A tree stand is the answer you are looking for here. These stands are portable and can be put up in about 5 minutes time. There s a ladder that leads to a platform where you either sit or stand. Be sure to use a harness or fall arrest system when up in a stand.